Yvonne and I! |
Having forgotten to book my flight from KK to Sandakan, I suffered from a false sense of economy and failed to remember that RM 180 is still only about $60 and well worth it to avoid a seven-hour bus ride. So I got in the taxi to the bus station at 9:30, where I was berated by the driver for not getting up earlier. I told him to shove it (in a very polite manner of course) as it was too late for advice now! I also knew that buses leave for Sandakan so often that they may as well be Bourke Street trams. Getting out of the taxi I had one of the most horrible experiences of the trip. I had the door wrenched out of my hands as ten hawkers tried to sell me tickets, shouting at the top of their lungs 20cm from my face. It was quite a shock since this hasn't happened anywhere else in my whole trip, even the KK ferries the people were at least standing behind counters. Luckily my taxi driver came to help and told them all to buzz off, telling me to go with one particular guy. I didn't care if he got commission as it was only 30 ringgit which is cheaper than I thought it was and the others went away. The bus was air conditioned and very comfortable. We stopped at Ranau (about 3 hours into the journey) for a rest stop at a revolting place. There was not only no paper in the toilet (no worries, I come prepared nowadays) but no water anywhere at all to wash your hands or flush the toilet. You can imagine the mess. I reassessed my need to eat at this point and got a carton of Milo and some pre-packaged fruit cake instead, even then I waited until I was on the bus to eat it.
My fabulous steamboat hosts |
Then I got a great tour of Sandakan. They drove me to Agnes Keith House (which was closed as it was night, but there is a great view), around the waterfront, and to a market where we picked up something for (second) dessert. This stuff was fabulous, and a heart attack waiting to happen. It was a long deep-fried sugar donut cut in half, spread with butter, spread thickly with kaya (coconut egg jam) and then closed up and covered in kaya. Delicacies such as this, and the fact that every drink is drowned in sugar, make you understand why diabetes incidence in Malaysia is skyrocketing. We took it back to my hotel and sat outside with some juice and enjoyed the evening.
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