Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Kuching (Meow!)

Had a nice flight from KK this morning, stopping at Sibu for 15 minutes - just long enough for a stamp in my passport. It's strange here in Malaysia, when you travel interstate you have to go through immigration and customs every time. Seems like a lot of work! There is a 1Malaysia initiative happening where they are trying to unite all the races and religions better, but it seems to me as though there are a lot of barriers between states. I don't know why Borneo doesn't just declare independence, because they sure seem to hate KL.

My small but very comfy room
Arrived in town to find my shuttle waiting for me (in the wrong place, ah... Malaysia...) and we started off to Kuching. I very quickly realised I wasn't in Kansas anymore and that this is in fact a real city. I had no idea how big it was, I expected another Kota Kinabalu or Tawau. About halfway there I was stunned to see a Swinburne University campus! A big one too. We arrived at the hotel, I wasn't quite sure what to expect because of the price but it's a real hotel. However, it's quite unique and feels like walking around a cruise ship as there are corridors everywhere. The rooms have no windows, so they can pack more in. Mine is a deluxe single and has a huge bed, huge pillows, aircon, internet and a big bathroom for about 25 bucks a night.

One of Kuching's cat statues
Kuching is known as the city of cats, which is why I came here (yeah, yeah I know, crazy cat lady. Now where is my rocking chair?) but what I hadn't realised until Nazmi told me is that "kucing" is actually the Malay word for cat. There are several cat statues and even a cat museum (Edward from the Chinese laundry is giving me bus directions to go there!). However, there are nowhere near as many cats around as in Mabul and Tawau... false advertising I say. There were a few hanging round the eating areas but they were looking pretty unwell and I didn't want to touch them.

I went for a walk down to the waterfront and took a river cruise on a sampan. Also onboard was one of the most unpleasant people I've met so far, actually he reminded me of the manager of Scuba Junkie in many ways. He was a know-it-all and had done everything and bought the t-shirt, and when I asked what something was, he would answer and not let the Malaysian boat driver say anything. In fact he actually corrected him many times (incorrectly) so the tour wasn't much fun. However, at the end the driver said "I would like you to invite you to my house on Wednesday to eat with my family and friends, for Hari Raya Haji". It's a festival that occurs a month after Hari Raya, the post-Ramadan feast. Of course I said yes please! 

Edible jungle ferns
Later I took a ferry ride (in little sampans) over to the other side of the river, but I couldn't work out how to order the food. I tried, but they muttered at me something about sitting down first. I sat down but the only person to talk to me was someone trying to sell Hotlink sim cards. After ten minutes I just left. Back over the river and over to a place called Top Spot, which I never would have found if the porter at the Grand Margherita hadn't shown me where it was. It's in the middle of town, but you have to walk up about 8 flights of stairs and it's on the roof (Top Spot... the name says it all). It's basically the same as the Tawau and KK seafood markets and I know how to work those now, so I walked around and chose my restaurant. I chose to order the local delicacy of jungle fern fronds, cooked in garlic. Oh my goodness it was fantastic!!

Walking back towards the hotel I passed a couple of bars. I felt like a bit of company so I went inside Soho and ordered a beer. Paul, the bartender, took great care of me and 6 beers later he and his wife drove me home (100m!). It was good to have a proper conversation in English for a change!!

Kuching waterfront at night

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